We were recently to be found just over the border in Scotland for a wee break and a complete change of scenery. Our home for two nights was a cute Victorian cottage at Reston called Coveyheugh Lodge. Set in a wooded valley between a railway line and the busy A1, it isn’t quite as peaceful as it looks! However we weren’t put off by the occasional noise, as this home away from home is a wonderful base for exploring the lovely East Scotland coastline.
Although we had originally planned a couple of walks in the local area, we hadn’t realised that poor Wil would still be recovering from sciatica. So what we did was some gentle pottering. Luckily there were fascinating places to visit, only a short drive away.
This small fishing town was once a smugglers paradise. It’s location just North of the border meant it was the nearest Scottish port to the Continent. Tea and Spirits were duly smuggled. A handsome Quayside house Gunsgreen House was apparently built on the proceeds and today houses a museum and smugglers trail.
Eyemouths natural harbour is a working fishing harbour and a river called ‘ Eye Water ‘ flows into it. 🙂 Grey Seals can often be seen here, though I suspect this may have something to do with the seal feeding point at the water’s edge. Although it was lovely to see them, I do question whether wild seals should be fed in this way, incase they come to depend on the food. What do you think?
A tragic time in Eyemouths maritime history is brought to life in an evocative and moving sculpture on the sea front. Widows & Bairns by Jill Watson depicts the waiting wives and children of men whose fishing vessels were struck down in the fatal storm of 1881, killing 179. The frantic gestures of the fishermen’s families are heartbreaking to see , especially when many of the boats were destroyed so close to shore ; the sea was just too rough to contemplate rescue. The loss was Scotland’s worst ever fishing disaster.
Eyemouth has a really nice sandy beach ( not pictured 🤣 ) , a couple of pubs with seafaring names like The Contented Sole and we shared fish & chips on the quayside from Giacopazzi’s.
My pictures really don’t do Coldingham Bay justice. It’s the prettiest little sandy inlet, in-between Eyemouth and St Abbs. On our visit this sheltered beach was a balmy 16°c, not bad for the last Wednesday in October. As well as lots of golden sand, there are tidal rock pools and colourful beach huts. What a gem of a setting.
The bay has a Beach cafe ( closed on our visit), toilets and car park. St Vedas Surf Shop was doing a roaring trade in paddle boarding , coffees & cake. I can imagine this place getting busy in the Summer.
Just North of Eyemouth is the picturesque fishing village of St Abbs. It’s dramatic backdrop of jagged purple cliffs gives the harbour side fishermens cottages a very scenic setting. So much so that St Abbs doubles as Thor’s home New Asgard in the Marvel movie Avengers : Endgame. I can’t say I’ve watched any of the recent Avengers films but I can see why the village was picked, it does have a Scandinavian look about it.
And at this time of year St Abbs has its own Pumpkin Patch. 🙂 Love it……
Just outside of the St Abbs Visitor Centre there is another Jill Watson Memorial. St Abbs did not escape the tragic storms that took so many fishermens lives back in 1881.
The cliffs at St Abbs Head are home to various seabirds who make their home on the rugged ledges. And there’s a Grey Seal colony here too. We didn’t walk the cliff top paths of the Nature Reserve , definitely something to think about doing next time. What a wild and unspoilt headland.
The places we visited are joined by the Berwickshire Coastal Path .
Bye for Now. 🎃
25 thoughts on “A Wee Borders Break.”
What a lovely break, Hugo looks right at home in front of the fire. ☺️ Great seal photos; I love watching wild seals, but not sure I agree with feeding them. 😕 Those statues are very haunting. X
It was fantastic to get up to Scotland again. It’s been a while! The seals looked healthy enough, I just hope they also catch their own food too. You are right about the statues, they certainly made me feel sorrowful for the families left behind. X
It looks like a nice area for a short break, especially in really sunny weather. Those memorials are certainly very emotive. For many reasons I don’t agree with feeding the seals – they are wild animals and should be respected and treated as such.
It is a lovely area Eunice. So glad we discovered it. The seals looked pretty healthy, but yes I do agree about the feeding really. X
We walked Coldingham Bay to St Abbs a few years ago I was blown away by Coldingham Bay beach – in the summer, you really could be in Cornwall!
Yes it certainly feels that way. It is very sheltered with proper sand castle making sand. 🙂
Oh I hope you walked to St Abbs’ lighthouse – the views are wonderful!
We couldn’t walk far as Wil currently has a bad leg. One to do in the future!
Another great ‘short break’ Was that cottage an Airbnb?
Hope Wil’s sciatica is better.
It is on Airbnb. It’s about five miles from the coast and a railway station is being built in Reston currently, which would make it even more of a good holiday base. Think Wil has overdone it a bit but he has gone back to work today, so fingers crossed he will be ok.
Have to say I have watched Endgame and I did wonder where that section was filmed as it looked very UK fishing village. And looks as though you made the most of the sciatica, hope it gets better soon
I will have to watch the film. I did watch Black Widow last night and enjoyed that and I have watched the first Avengers film, just not everything in between! It’s Wil that has sciatica, think he overdid it a bit, but he has gone back to work today.
Marvellous wee trip! You’ve just reminded me we haven’t had a good fish supper in a while! Must resolve! 💐🙋♂️
Oooh nice. Enjoy when you do. 🙂
Love the memorials, sad though they are.
Yes they are very thought provoking.
Looks like a great time was had by all, especially Hugo! Feeding wild seals is unnecessary (except maybe as a short-term response to a localised crisis), and should be discouraged.
Hugo loved the beaches there. 🙂
I agree about the seals. They did look okay , but I wouldn’t like to think they depend on the fish provided. Apparently there is a seal colony just up the coast, so whether they come from there I’m not sure…
Mushy peas with the fish n chips, I think!
Wonderful photos. You brought back some memories of us visiting Eyemouth when we were based at Berwick-on-Tweed. Those statues weren’t there then, they say so much. Love to see the seals but not sure about the regular feeding as they are in the wild and not a sanctuary.. Looks like you had a lovely short break:)
I wish we had had time to visit Berwick on Tweed too. It’s a lovely area, hopefully will return oneday. x
Hope Wil is feeling better? Looks a lovely little break away. Those Jill Watson sculptures though! Oh wow! powerful! x
They are pretty emotional aren’t they. Wil is feeling alot better though parts of his foot are still numb. We haven’t tried a proper walk in ages! X
Oh dear, that’s not good. Hope he feels better soon xx